Johnny T, in his infinite graciousness, has provide to both The Kilted One and I an article worthy of both consideration and discussion. It boasts an interesting premise, a broaching analysis of big business's interest in propping up the hegemony through its various advertising campaigns. This one, specifically, deals with Generation X—a generation whose boundary I just chin-hairingly squeak into. If at all.*
The name of the article (or chapter in a book, really, was "The Diesel Jeans and Workwear Advertising Campaign and the Commodification of Resistance." It was penned by the ever-dapper Daniel R. Nicholson.
Nicholson uses his allotted space to rail against big advertising for its part in supporting the hegemony by pretending to support the resistance, thereby drawing resistors from the ranks of the truly resistant and into the hegemonic fold. He does this by analyzing Diesel's entertainingly sly marketing campaign in the early '90s that went by the nomenclature, Successful Living (though I guess that particular identity transferred to the brand generally). Nicholson supports counter-hegemony activism and believes that by marketing the so-called lifestyle of such activism, Diesel is in fact actively stripping (or actively stripped since this was written in the early '90s) Generation X of their lives of resistance by simply replacing life with a lifestyle.
What the Hegemony Is It?
It may be worthwhile here to describe, define, or otherwise elucidate on the term hegemony.
It's not a terminology I use often. Or really, ever. Essentially though, hegemony is a form of consensual control. Police states use the threat of force or violence to keep the populous under control; hegemonies on the other hand, are according to Nicholson "a sort of society-wide agreement which attempts to maintain a social order among the various members of society." Part of Nicholson's problem with hegemonies is that despite any influx of good will on the part of the participants, a society itself will continue to oppress certain members of the society. These victims are subordinated by various and almost discernible uses of power by the dominant group of victimizers.
The creation and disbursement of pop-culture, says Nicholson, is one of the many forms that the power of the dominant group influences the subordinate. "Hegemony occurs when the subordinate group acquiesces and accepts the 'reality' produced and then maintained by a dominant group." And so, Nicholson supports counter-hegemony.
Counter-hegemony, then, focus on personal and continued enlightenment and, once enlightened, action based upon the truths learned. Counter-hegemony is based wholly on the discontent that full-comprehension ideally must engender. Nicholson relies on the theory that analysis of pop-culture is itself counter-hegemonic and will result in both discontentment and the resultant action.
While I think there's some bits of the view worthy of critique (not the least of which is the elitism and appeal to a popularity upon which Nicholson relies**), I'm not really going to be talking about that today. Instead I'd like to focus on Nicholson's points that a) Diesel is commodifying resistance and b) this is a danger to the resistance.
Commodifying the Resistance?
To the first point, Nicholson does well with his analysis of several magazine advertisements in which Diesel vies for the disinterested interest of the cynical, hopeful Generation X. I found his perspective fascinating and think he did a great job pointing out exactly what Diesel was trying to do: sell the Generation X lifestyle to twenty-somethings.
In the early '90s it was discovered that twenty-somethings, those in the generation called X, seemed jaded and rather immune to the advertising formulae that worked well in the Cosby decade, the boisterous big-hair and yuppie-driven '80s. After growing up with commercial after commercial fraught with promises that could not be delivered, my generation grew to resent marketing and saw through the lie of most of it. At least on the surface of it anyway.
So advertising changed. It became more obscure. More self-deprecating. Harder to understand. Not that there hadn't been this kind of advertising all along, but it seemed to take on a renewed vigour in the face of a cynical market - exactly the kind of disillusioned consumers to whom such advertising flourishes. Gen-Xers supposedly found joy and accomplishment from deconstructing smart ads. That joy transformed into interest in a company that cared enough about them to market directly at their obscure, self-referential, and devastatingly witty needs. Or something like that.
And so advertisers duped Generation X into becoming consumers and supporting the hegemony just like advertisers tricked their parents and uncles into doing the same. Only this time they did it by preying upon the very thing that could set them apart from prior generations: their discontent and resistance to a society that wronged them. Nicholson pins this on advertisers like Diesel, who capitalize on the desire to be resistant.
The thing is, I don't think advertisers like Diesel are to blame for the commodification of Generation X.
Nicholson laments here, that because these kids weren't savvy enough, they were getting swindled by a fashion industry into believing that just looking the part would be enough. The thing is, it wasn't Diesel who commodified the resistance. Diesel only capitalized on the existing commodification. The commodification began the moment someone gave the generation a name.
It was the coinage of the term that was the culprit. The moment someone first said that Generation X was _______, then suddenly there was this identity to live up to. What? I'm supposed to be apathetic, disillusioned, cynical, wry? Well, I better get crackin' then! Generation X is what's cool, so I better look and play and smell the part. Goodbye mascara and hairspray! Hello bedhead! Goodbye vinyl! Hello flannel! Gotta look the part, gotta play the part. I don't know what ennui means, but I can learn, I can adapt.
The identity was not commodified by Diesel Jeans or any other advertiser. They merely noted the ongoing commodification and marketed toward those who would be attracted to such commodification.
Danger to No One Worth Saving
Those who revelled in the identity, those who even cared about the identity, were never Generation X (in its most proper form). They were hangers-on. Wannabes. They are the people who would shop a Hot Topic today in order to be so very punk, so very scene. And if there's one thing cooler than being cooler, it's eschewing coolness at every opportunity and relishing in one's outcast status. There is no one so ineffably hip than the person who is hated by the society for which he toils.***
Part of Nicholson's definition for Generation X is that they really and truly do not care. That person is not in any way going to be affected by the Diesel campaign. And if they do buy Diesel Jeans it won't be because they want to look the part.
Nicholson worries that by selling a resistance-lifestyle, Diesel is robbing people from truly living as a resistant and prompting them to think looking the part is okay. The thing is, none of those who care about looking the part were ever a part of the resistance anyway. They might occasionally play the part of the noble counter-hegemonic influence, but really? They're probably just doing it to get chicks. And I assure you, Daniel R. Nicholson, losing the wannabe to Value Commodification is no loss to your cause. If anything, Diesel is doing you a favour by giving the opposition Team Colours.
And really, this is besides the point anyway. As Nicholson points out, the true players for Generation X are not players at all. They don't care. They are apathetic. They've lost interest in politics, business, society. They are experiencing, as Nicholson says, weltschmerz: which is a "mental depression and apathy caused by comparison of the actual state of the world with an ideal state." So in the end, who cares if Diesel is sucking Genexers into its tractor beam of capitalism and hegemony? It's not like they cared enough to be the resistance anyway. Resistance entails hope and apathy is the enemy of hope.
Still though, I liked his analysis of the ads themselves. It was fun, in a Gen X sort of way.
*note: The early '70s seems to be the best estimated cut-off time for whatever we term Generation X, though some will place the cut-off as late as 1976. Later estimates (say... 1985?) seem to have one common failing: the proposed Genexers would only have been under twelve ('85ers would have been six) when the term came into vogue, describing a generation that was currently experiencing a deep ennui and generational cynicism resulting from the big lie of the '80s. These were supposedly twenty-somethings who found they didn't fit into the place the world had prepared for them. Twelve year-olds can't claim that particular conceit.
**note: At one point, Nicholson states the "the truly media literate will recognize that the advertisers of [the Diesel Jeans] campaign have appropriated the resistant, anti-establishment attitudes of Generation X and commodified them for the purpose of selling resistant, anti-establishment identities in order to make money for Diesel." So either you're "truly media literate" or you disagree with Nicholson and relegate yourself to the scrap pile of the media illiterate. Joy.
***note: The key to discerning the truly put-upon from the lookitmeI'msodowntrodden is that the truly put-upon is happy to be shown that things aren't as bad as all that while the wannabe relies so heavily on the idea that he is discontent that any and every effort to lighten or remove the cloud of ultra-hip despair that perches in a distinguished other-worldly hover above his head must and will be forcefully rebuffed. The wannabe is immune to reason for fear of the horrible possibility of removing his resistance-identity and replacing it with something slightly less discomforted and acquiescing (and therefore, less cool).
Labels: advertising, social issues